Thursday 26 September

The local boy-racers were round again last night, showing off with "doughnuts" and the like - until a couple of police cars turned up when they disappeared. We suppose a nice empty car-park is just too tempting, even if it was pouring with rain.

We didn't need to rush as the ferry was at 11.30, but nevertheless made a reasonably early start and arrived at the port to find there was a 30 minute delay, due to fog in the channel. Eventually boarded and found comfortable seats and the ferry departed only 20 minutes late. The sea was flat calm and we never really noticed the crossing as we decided on an early light lunch to avoid having to stop once we were across.

Arrival and disembarking quickly we headed off to try and get ahead of the traffic in which endeavour we were quite successful as the roads were quiet. The rain had stopped before we got up and the clear weather had extended ahead of us so it was a pleasant drive through southern Scotland, pausing just before Dumfries to let Jamie out and enjoy a cuppa. The ferry traffic caught us up, recognised by a long line of almost identical white vans we'd travelled with on the crossing, but on setting off again there weren't any hold-ups.

We finally reached home just before 7.00 pm, got tea organised then started the unloading, which will be finished tomorrow.

*     *     *     *     *

And so ends another trip with new memories of places seen and enjoyed. We really liked Ireland right from the start and wished we'd allowed a little longer as we'd only managed half of our objective, the Wild Atlantic Way but we resolved to return next year to take up where we left off and maybe stay a little longer too. We were very fortunate with the weather; it was never cold and what rain we had didn't prevent us from doing anything.

So Bertie will get cleaned and put away again, but there are a few jobs that need attending to before the annual service and of course our next trip, which will probably be our over-winter flight south to the sun.

If you're still with us, thanks for joining us and we hope you've enjoyed reading this load of rubbish!

Terry, Brenda and of course not forgetting Jamie.

Wednesday 25 September – Belfast

We decided to miss out on our bus trip around Belfast when we first arrived but as we managed the return trip in one day, rather than sit around kicking our heels thought we'd give it a go. So after a reasonable start to a lovely morning we headed back into Belfast, parking up close to the Titanic Centre from where we knew we could catch one of the tourist buses.

Typically we managed to miss two! But it seems that they had a couple of extra tours on today so didn't have to wait long. A friendly and knowledgeable guide welcomed us aboard and we set off, first out of the city proper to Stormont and the seat of the N.I. Government. After a brief security check the bus was allowed right up to the palace and passengers got off, apparently there being a proper tour. 

Stormont

Along the way we were given lots of info as to the history and current situation, as well as comments about the areas we passed through. We were surprised to learn, and see, that the famed Harland and Wolff factory had gone into admistration a few weeks ago due to a continuing strike by its workforce, who had a picket line around the gates.

A big part of the tour covered the area that featured “The Troubles”, the 30 year civil unrest where so many died, all in the name of religion – although if you look back in history it all started when the English land and factory owners caused the separation of the two main protagonists and it just developed from there. However that's another story.

The Peace Wall (1)

(2)

(3)

Enough about the past; despite there still being some ill-feeling much has been done to heal the rifts and the area is now thriving although there is much of the famous street art, left we presume as a reminder that the past must not be alllowed to repeat itself. What did surprise is that the famed separation wall still exists (see photos above) and is still locked at night.

Crumlin Road Jail - now a museum & visitor centre

The very centre of Belfast, as well as having it's share of fine old architecture, is very much like other cities with much modern development. It is extremely busy, several times we were held up in traffic but the tour company seem to have factored that in as the bus ran pretty much to schedule. With more time it would be nice to explore more, however not for us on this occasion. We changed buses in the city centre when ours stopped for their break, and returned quite quickly to the Titanic Centre. We often use these tour buses when we want a taste of a city and the Belfast example was as good as others.

HMS Caroline

Back to the van, then, and a late lunch before making our way back to Carrickfergus for our last night. We plan to eat out again before an earlyish night, ready for a reasonable start in the morning to the ferry terminal which, thankfully, is only 20 mins away.

Tuesday 24 September – Rinville to Carrickfergus

Knowing it was quite a long way back to Belfast we planned on taking two days. However another early start to a beautiful morning caused us to check with the satnav and we realised it could be done without too much effort in one day, a good proportion of the route being on motorways, the rest on good main roads. This would also give us the opportunity of doing the bus tour of Belfast that we missed at the start of the trip.

Little really to say, a motorway is the same everywhere but at least we stayed ahead of the weather system creeping across the country so it was a pleasant drive. We paused at a small harbour south of Dundalk for lunch after having made excellent time before joining the heavy traffic into and through Belfast – we'd managed to hit the early rush hour queues but were in no hurry. In the end this was actually helpful because the carpark at Carrickfergus Castle was pretty full but as we arrived many cars were leaving so we got a similar spot overlooking the harbour as last time.

As I write, at 10.30 pm there are a couple of the local lads showing off in their souped up motors, but we expect, as last time, that they'll shortly go home.

Monday 23 September - Askill to Rinville (nr Galway)

A wide awake Jamie encouraged an early start but the weather wasn't joining in the fun! Within a short while it was raining and it set in for the day, although again it was never cold. We'd sort of set our minds on reaching Galway for our last day on the Wild Atlantic Way but there was still quite a long way to go – if we stuck to the route.

But the weather didn't really encourage much exploration today although it did complement the dark and brooding landscape with mist and cloud over the hills and valleys that we were now passing through. We took a short cut across a peninsular which took us across miles of boggy moorland with much evidence of peat harvesting – this of course is another feature of Irish landscapes and was easily viewable from the comfort of the van. Pity it was of no help for photographs.

Although the roads were generally wider now, it was quite busy and several times we had to stop and give way to tour coaches. Touring hire cars were also much in evidence, identified by the Dublin registration and useless drivers!

Campercontact suggested a suitable stopping place just east of Galway so once we had rejoined the WAW we set TomTom, who took us right round this surprisingly sprawling city and deposited us at a quiet marina overlooking an inlet. No facilities, although we did discover a water tap later, so we settled down to another quiet evening. Thankfully the weather system had passed through so Jamie's last walkies was dry and quite pleasant.

Regretfully we can go no further on the Wild Atlantic way, but have resolved to return to complete it. Tomorrow we need to start heading north towards Belfast, ready for our ferry on Thursday.

Sunday 22 September – Crossmolina to Achill Island

As we went to bed, still raining, we suspected that Jamie was going to be a problem again, and sure enough half an hour later he was asking to go out. Terry obliged but, just in case, bedded down on the side seats to stay with him as he was obviously unhappy. Over the next couple of hours we were out twice more, but then he settled – but Terry had an uncomfortable night.

Dry if dull at Sunday Breakfast time so after dealing with the tanks etc. rejoined the Wild Atlantic Way. Again we were a little disappointed with the scenery so missed out a number of the viewpoints, which all appeared to be of long beaches and the occasional view of the coastal headlands. Accessing these meant leaving the “main” road and navigating little lanes, just to turn round and come back again, which seemed a bit pointless to us so most were by-passed.

We did however start to pass through somewhat hillier and boggy moorland, which of course is another feature of the Irish countryside. Unfortunately we had omitted to top up the fuel tank and it was also a somewhat unpopulated area, as well as being Sunday. This discouraged us from taking some of the peninsular diversions until we came to a filling station that was open. It wasn't really a problem but having managed something similar before we did not want to be faced with a low fuel situation.

Lunch. The stand indicates a WAW point of interest

But all was now well and we found a nice, if somewhat breezy, beach for the obligatory exercise and an extended lunch stop. As the afternoon wore on the scenery started to become more interesting and the sun came out – that always makes everything look better. Consulting our trusty Campercontact App we noted another private aire-type place just after crossing the bridge onto Askill Island which we'd reach at just about the right time for a stop. On arrival we found that the owners were on holiday but the couple in another Brit van, who had arrived shortly before us, had been told by the guys who were currently redecorating the house to just carry on and put the fees in an envelope in the letter box. So we dropped anchor, had a nice chat with the other couple then tea.

Saturday 21 September – Donegal to Crossmolina

Another bright sunny start to the day, breakfast, do the tanks and a chat with Joe, the site owner, before calling at Lidl, just a few hundred metres down the road to restock. Up to now we've made very few food purchases, having managed very well on what we brought from home – but now the fridge was looking a bit empty!

That sorted we rejoined the Wild Atlantic Way, passing briefly through Co. Leintrim (one of the smaller counties) and into Co. Sligo. The scenery now changed quite significantly; gone were the craggy coastlines and instead lots of long sweeping beaches enclosed by low-lying headlands. We still, however, had the twisty narrow roads as the route faithfully followed the coastline as far as possible. Some of these roads really were not suitable for our size vehicle, and the surfaces often were rough and extremely bumpy, but it was not busy so we managed. It was interesting to occasionally note from signposts that despite driving for several hours we were only a few miles from where we started!

Called at a couple of these magnificent beaches so we could let Jamie off for a run and at one, Streedagh Beach, came across an ever-growing crowd for some kind of event. We eventually put together that this was the site where the defeated Spanish Armada came ashore (not really sure why) and were anihilated and a remembrance parade was being held. This explained a contingent from the Spanish Navy, who had a corvette anchored just offshore, and many Spanish speaking people. Apparently this was held every year, but being of little interest to us, and without wishing to cause any offence, we managed to extricate ourselves from a by now very full carpark and creep away before it all kicked off.

Memorial crosses being erected in the sand

But the weather was turning. A strong wind had got up and the skies were lowering, confirming the forecast that it was going to get a bit rough, so we decided to head inland and find a more sheltered stop for the night. Campercontact suggested a spot on Lough Conn near Crossmolina, which actually wasn't far off the WAW so TomTom was enlisted to take us there. It was basically just a small jetty/harbour where a few watersports activities were carried out, but an area had been dedicated for motorhome parking. Just a small toilet block and a tap but it was more than enough for us – all they asked for was a €10 donation.

Sure enough the rain arrived, becoming quite heavy. We were somewhat amused to see a small convoy of French motorhomes arrive, ignore the empty spaces and huddle together on a piece of waste land. They still apparently made use of the few facilities but we bet nothing made it into the donations box – typical!

We were somewhat disappointed at the abrupt changes in the WAW compared to Donegal, but will carry on the route for now, but always bearing in mind that each mile we travel is one more away from our return ferry from Belfast.

Friday 20 September – Donegal

We'd decided to stay put today, for a day off driving, but also to get some washing done. We're staying on a private motorhome site which has all facilities so got our load in early and by mid-afternoon it was all done, dried and put away. We also had nice hot showers and the van got a clean out and service too.

The rest of the day was quiet as we had sort of planned to go into town this evening for a look-see and something to eat as well as maybe look in on a pub or two for the fabled “craic” The site owner very kindly offered to take us in to town, it's only 2km, and show us the best places although he did say that anywhere was good.

So after a mini-tour he dropped us off in the Diamond, the market “square”, and we had a stroll around. Tried to get a look at the Castle but couldn't find any good viewpoints and there was not a lot of anything else so walked round the restaurants. Pretty well standard fayre, with a couple of individual variations and all at similar prices. In the end we chose the Market House, a somewhat upmarket place attached to the big hotel, mainly because it was the last one to look at and was quite busy without being crowded; for us an indication that it's probably okay.

We weren't disappointed and enjoyed an excellent meal with superb friendly service – enjoyed it perhaps a bit too much because we staggered out and simply couldn't face a pub as well. Good job the taxi rank was right outside the door!

For us a perfect end to a wonderful trip round County Donegal. Tomorrow we head south for a different experience.