Tuesday 17 September – Buncranna to Dunfanaghy

Another peaceful night and a bright sunny morning. Today we're going to track the Wild Atlantic Way properly, but first some LPG and refill the fuel tank. Incidentally diesel is a tad cheaper than the UK but petrol is much more expensive.

"Roundabout Art" in Buncranna

Yesterday we picked up several guidebooks that cover sections of the WAW including very good maps, but there were signs everywhere and once we'd worked out that if it didn't have a (N) or (S) on it, the road was a sidetrack to a feature or viewpoint so we could decide if we wanted to take it or not. Bear in mind that the route does it's best to stick to the coast so includes many narrow twisty and hilly roads, not ideal for a motorhome but, even meeting the local weekly bus on one narrow bit, we managed okay.

At last we had found the scenery we were expecting. Craggy cliffs and hills overlooking long sweeping bays of golden sand, the fields dotted with bright white cottages and pretty villages taking us back in time. We took quite a lot of photos and include here a few that hopefully give some idea although, as usual, they cannot possibly do the reality any justice. Coupled with the whole thing illuminated in bright sunshine, it was bordering on magical.

Ballymastocker Strand

Fanad Head lighthouse with Malin Head in the distance

From Rosguil - the post is a WAW viewpoint identifier

Lunch was after a good romp with Jamie on what was reckoned to be the most beautiful beach in Europe (we haven't seen them all but can go with that) at Ballymastocker Strand. We viewed Malin Head from afar and tried to visit another notable headland and lighthouse at Fanad Head but many of these places have not really catered for lots of visitors and so a quick photo, then struggle to turn around and rejoin the WAW.

After yet more creeping around narrow coastal roads we paused for a cuppa at Rosguil and planned our next overnight stop. There are a few campsites around but quite expensive at a minimum of €25 per night for facilities we don't need although fortunately there are also plenty of places where we can park up overnight without troubling anybody. Up to now we've had little problem getting water and disposing of our waste although recycling anything other than glass or tins doesn't seem to be the norm here.

So our final stop for the day was at a carpark close to the village of Dunfanaghy at another fabulous beach of Kilahoey. Once again Jamie had a good run around – as I write he's curled up fast asleep next to me, his paws going as he relives his day (aah!) - before we settled down for the night. There have been quite a lot of comings and goings but almost all have been dog-walkers and now at 10.00 pm all we can hear is the gentle lapping of waves on the beach...............